Many individuals get extremely nervous when their automobile nears or reaches 100,000 miles. In the past, this meant that it was most likely time to trade it in. Few individuals understand that by putting in a small effort and a small investment in preventative maintenance, your automobile can go well over 100,000 miles and has a good chance to make 200,000.

Among the easiest ways to prolong engine life would be to just change your oil every 3000 to 5000 miles. Many manufacturers do not put this policy in place because it adds to the lifetime cost of ownership but it is imperative.  I understand that this seems like common sense, however one would be surprised at how few automobile owners take advantage of this easy 20 minute investment. Also,utilizing synthetic oil rather than a blend or traditional oil would also increase engine life. Utilizing synthetic oil is a bit more costly but you’ll save money over the long run simply because it extends the life of your car. Over 100,000 miles the cost of a synthetic oil change performed every 5000 miles is $1,300.  An average new car is $30,000.  Easy math.

An additional easy step that many people ignore is to look at the owner’s manual and adhere to the scheduled maintenance. Performing these preventative measures insures the long life of your automobile. This means you will have to change transmission fluid, brake fluid, coolant and possibly differential fluid. Again, over 100,000 mile the total of these services is no more than $1,300.  Do not wait till your car’s engine warning light comes on, simply because by that time it is generally too late and a significant problem has occurred. It’s also essential to obtain major tune ups every 50,000 miles or so. It can cost as much as $300 to complete this on some cars, but once more, you’ll save money over the long haul simply because you’ll be able to maintain your car longer. Your car is an investment in your independence and quality of life. Your automobile is really your second biggest investment behind your home, so is not it essential to invest in it’s up maintain?

Lastly try to reduce wear and tear on your car. Reduce hard stop and go driving and hard acceleration and sudden braking. This will certainly shorten the life of your automobile. Try to remain on the highway as much as you possibly can, as highway miles are the least wear and tear.

I would love to hear some tips that other mechanics have to keep a car running 200,000 miles. Please respond.

Getting an oil change at a repair facility that you can trust is NOT expensive.  When you consider that your oil is the life blood of your car, paying another ten dollars for peace of mind is probably the best money decision you can make today.  Consider the facts about the quick oil change companies like Valvoline or Jiffy Lube. Go to Destroyed engines to see what I am talking about.

• One of the first problems is that at a price of around $20-$25 there is almost zero profit margin. In order to make this business model techs are taught to up sell.  So do not expect to walk out the door spending less than $35.00-$45.00 

• Some quick lube shops will only try to upsell what is needed, and that is fine but many also do not even take the time to verify what is required.

• Such small profit margins keep these quick lube businesses from hiring certified experienced automotive mechanics. If the business only clear fours dollars from a half an hour service, and the mechanic makes $25 an hour you lose $13 every half-hour. The business model does not add up.  So…. many of these locations will hire and train oil change technicians that have little or NO experience with your car. And with such a low salary, turnover is very high. I make a living with my car.  This model is NO bargain. 

At a company like Protech, we hire only certified technicians, we will NEVER try to upsell you unless the need is there, and your expense will be close to what the quick lube shops are charging.

The decision is always yours, but we would love to hear your thoughts.  

This three part blog will answer most questions people have when faced with a transmission issue. 

Repairing a transmission is obviously preferable.  It is the least expensive way to go.  We will look at the ten most common symptoms of transmission problems.  What symptoms are present and what is involved in repairing them.  The second part of this blog will be talking about replacing the transmission with a rebuilt model from a company like Jasper Engines and Transmissions. The third part will discuss when to suck it up and buy a new car.  Here are the top problems and their PROBABLE causes:

1. The gear shift will not budge when you press the clutch.  This obviously is for manual transmissions.  Even though they are simpler than automatic transmissions, things still go wrong.  The most common cause of gear shift lockup is low transmission fluid, the wrong fluid viscosity or thickness or it could just be an adjustment of the linkage.  The linkage is just that.  It is a cable that links the gear shift to the transmission housing.

2. A burning smell.  A burning transmission fluid smell is one thing that cannot be ignored.  Transmission fluid is like oil for your transmission. It keeps the gears lubricated but it also acts as a coolant. Again, the most common causes are low or worn out transmission fluid.  Totally preventable.

3.  Transmission is noisy. Even in neutral. This could be a lack of effective transmission fluid or possibly something more serious like worn gear teeth or worn bearings.  This one could be cheap or expensive. A lack of fluid will cause a noisy transmission.

4. Slipping out of gear.  This is most likely serious.  If your gear shift pops back into neutral, it is time to have your transmission examined.  Clutch packs inside the tranny could be burnt and need replacing.  It is worth trying a flush, which could free a moving part that may be stuck.  Either way, have it checked.  

5. Here's another transmission issue that plagues manual transmissions: a dragging clutch. This issue creates gear shearing and a nasty grinding noise.  This can seem like a really big expense, but, in most cases, the problem is not severe.  It is just too much slack in the clutch pedal so the linkage does not disengage the flywheel.  Get it fixed before your gears start shearing. Shearing gears IS serious.

6. Leaking transmission fluid is by far one of the easiest ways to tell that your transmission needs repair.  Transmissions are closed loop and should NEVER leak.  Even a little fluid on your driveway can turn into a major problem. See above problems, most are caused by a lack of fluid or the wrong fluid.  Most people mistake transmission fluid for oil or coolant.  Automatic transmission fluid is bright red and clear when everything's working and the fluid is still good.  If it is dark and smells burnt have it FLUSHED.  If you have a manual transmission, checking the fluid levels which is like checking your oil. A leaking transmission could be as simple as a cracked fitting or a cracked hose but trust us; it won’t be simple if you don’t get it repaired.  

7. If your fluid level is good see if your check engine light is on.  See our earlier blog about this subject.  The check engine light may be a great early indicator that something is starting to go wrong with your transmission. Engine diagnostics can pick up vibrations and sense problems early on.  The check engine light can come on for myriad of reasons not related to your transmission, but it may be time for a transmission repair.

8. Grinding sound.  A grinding means that the clutch is not disengaging the gears from the flywheel.  The grinding could also be accompanied by a slamming, jarring sensation as it goes into the next gear.  There are a lot of reasons from a simple worn clutch but probably gear synchronizers that help the gears engage smoothly.

9. Whining sound or clunking sound. You know your car like you know your body.  When something is not right you know it because something is different.  So when your car is making a noise for the first time, you know it right away.  The noises like whirring or clunking could be the rear end (differential or CV joints) or the transmission.  One thing for certain is it will get worse over time. 

   

   Manual Transmission

10. A lack of response. If your car is shifting gears or accelerating slowly and lagging when going into park, there is an issue.  This probably means a worn out clutch.  Not a small expense but not huge either.

Please see our next blog regarding what to do if you transmission needs replacing.

Does Brake Fluid need to be changed?

What is brake fluid made of and why does it have to be changed? 

Brake fluid is a type of hydraulic fluid used in Anti lock brake systems and clutch systems in cars, light trucks and motorcycles. It is used to create force which creates pressure in the brake lines and transfer that pressure to the brake pads.  It works because liquids do not compress under pressure and their molecules pack together like a snowball.  So pressure applied to the brake pedal moves the fluid and transfers pressure to the pads. 

Because oils damage rubber seals and hoses brake fluids are not oil based. Most brake fluids used today are glycol, mineral oil or and silicone (DOT 5).  

For reliable, consistent brake system operation, brake fluid must maintain a constant thickness under a wide range of temperatures (including extreme cold). Brakes fluids must not corrode the metals but also must protect against corrosion as moisture enters the system. Most fluids have additives that are added to the base fluid to help with this. Brake fluids must maintain a low level of compressibility that remains low, even with varying temperatures.

So, why does my mechanic say it has to be changed? Brake fluid is not like a set of tires bought at Big-O!

This may come as a shock to most people, but 75% of car owners never change their fluid. Brake fluid attracts moisture, and moisture can rust the insides of the brake system. This moisture was not that big of deal when 10-15 years ago but brake systems are very different than they were back then and even a small amount of rust on delicate ABS systems can do a lot of damage.  Brake fluid can also break down over time from excess heat that is created from within and begin to compress when put under pressure.

Many shops recommend flushing the brake fluid system about every 30,000 miles, or whenever they are performing a brake job. To flush, all the old fluid is allowed to drip out.  Once the fluid is taken out, new fluid is put in.  As a consumer, make sure the action taken by the mechanic is a flush not a bleed.  A flush is getting all the old fluid out, a bleed is just putting in enough new to fill up the master cylinder and the lines. Kind of like a patch on an old wineskin.  

How can you tell if your fluid has water in it? There are test strips which can detect high levels of moisture present in the brake fluid, which should be almost clear. Auto stores carry these strips. If the fluid is black, don’t even bother checking with strips because the fluid is contaminated with dirty water and needs to be changed ASAP.  Again, if your fluid is not yellowish or clear, it needs to be changed.   

When the computer finds a problem in the electronic-control system that it can't correct, the computer turns on a yellow warning indicator light thats labeled “check engine”.   The computer stores a record of the system in question and outputs codes for check engine light which your mechanic can read by inserting a small handheld reader underneath your cars dashboard. 

However, rather than identifying a specific part that has failed, these codes usually refer to the system that is being affected by what has failed, making them more confusing than helpful.  Many times the technician replaces something simple like an oxygen sensor and clears the codes. But the vehicle’s computer needs to experience specific driving conditions necessary to reset the code. It can take days, weeks, or sometimes even months for a complete reset. As a result, check engine repairs often don’t work and eventually the light and the same code return.

Check engine light codes are also be read by car owners with relatively inexpensive code readers that can be purchased in most auto supply stores.  Each numerical code the reader picks up has a matching test procedure. Following that test completely will direct you to the problem providing you follow the rules. Each step of each test must be performed in absolute sequence. Skipping steps or performing steps out of sequence could make the entire test worthless. That is why diagnostics like this should be performed by a certified technician. Tests will also give you voltage, resistance, temperature and time specifications, which are exact values. Unless you can interpret them perfectly, don’t even try. Close doesn’t count.

A steady check engine light means that the problem is probably not severe but you still have the car checked as soon as possible.  If the light is blinking, the problem is most likely severe enough to have the code checked immediately.

There are many, many check engine light codes that be output by your cars computer including misfires and emission issues but below are some of the more common causes:

• If the check engine light stays but your vehicle operates normally there is probably an issue with the emission control system. You need to get the vehicle serviced as soon as possible because a backup program is running your emission system at a very low output. Eventually the vehicle will not start or begin stalling. 
• If the check engine light stays on AND your car is performing poorly, it involves a component of your emission system or your engine management system.  Obviously this is a much more serious issue that must be addressed because the drivability of the vehicle is compromised and your safety is at risk.
• If the engine light blinks or flickers, you have a much more serious issue. Your catalytic converter is most likely in the process of being damaged each time the flicker occurs.  This could mean the converter is getting red hot and could start a fire underneath the vehicle.  Immediately pull over and call for help.

If you have ever watched Big Bang Theory, there is a funny episode in which Penny drives her car with the check engine light constantly on. She seems to be indifferent.  It is funny, because all the guys are shocked that she refuses to take the car to be diagnosed but her car runs flawlessly.  Chances are she has an issue with her emission control system!  

• First off, oil does not just lubricate your engine.  It has additives to disperse heat, keep your engine clean, hold carbon particles at bay until your oil filter picks them up, inhibits corrosion, reduce wear and about ten other important jobs. Synthetic oil is not pulled from the ground and used as is; it is distilled or created in a chemical plant to have the same characteristics of oil only better.
• Second, the synthetic oil life span is longer.  It can handle higher temperatures and flat out lasts longer than conventional.  Because of heat, oil oxidizes (picks up oxygen molecules) and breaks down. It becomes thin, loses its additives and seriously reduces its ability to function. This happens around 1500 miles with conventional oil.  Synthetic can last at least 5,000-7,000 miles without breaking down. This means that you need to have your oil changed twice as much with conventional. 
• Synthetics have also been proven to produce less resistance in your engine and offer more horsepower and overall efficiency for the engine. This added efficiency means that the engine will be able to perform and use slightly less gas.
• With today’s technology, synthetics are cleaner. There is because their composition is derived in a laboratory rather than nature, and it has been proven to have a lower volatility and therefore not vaporize out the exhaust as quickly.

In spite of these advantages, there are many car experts who really do not think synthetic is worth the money, so there is no clear cut answer to should I switch to synthetic oil, but, be assured, no one is arguing that synthetic lasts longer and can reduce heat in your engine, which will reduce wear on your engine.  My advice is; if you want to keep your car past 100,000 miles, go with synthetic oil.  It’s what my mechanic puts in his car. 

First – where is the damage? If there is a slow leak and the tread is in good shape, there is most likely some sort of nail or screw in the tire itself.  If you cannot find the object, check the side wall.  Eventually you will find the reason for the leak.  The tire may have to be taken off the rim to check for problems with the wheel itself. A problem with the wheel may be the cause of your tire damage. Check the condition of the wheel upon removing the damaged tire, and repair it, or replace it if it is badly bent, rusted or corroded.

Repairable Damage – If you do find a nail or a screw you are probably in luck because a small patch or small plug can be applied and you can repair a tire as long as the cut or hole is less than .25” Generally, a plug works better than a patch, but stay away from the do it yourself kits, take it to an auto repair shop.  If it is any bigger than .25” you will have to get a new tire or better yet a pair, because the patch will never hold.

Tire Tread Evaluation - Do yourself a favor, if there is less that .008” of thread (you can see Lincolns head on a penny), replace it, don’t try to repair a tire with no tread left.  A good idea is to use it as a spare. Tires with worn down tread will not hold a plug and are more susceptable to a blowout, possibly at a high speed which could be catatrophic.

Non-Repairable Damage – A split or cracked sidewall can never be safely repaired. Replace the tire it with your spare ASAP. Your tire's sidewall is under different strains and pressures than the part that makes contact with the road.  Even if the replacement is a smaller tire, it is safer than a cracked sidewall.  Split and cracked beads, hold the majority of the tire's air pressure, and if they are cracked you could lose a tire on the freeway. Plugging a sidewall can result in a blowout, so don't try it. A problem with the wheel may be the cause of your tire damage.

Tire Replacement on a new vehicle -Your new vehicle's new tires came with a warranty separate from the one that covers the vehicle's transmission and other components. When the tire warranty expires, you do not need to replace your tires. Just maintain them by checking the tread monthly for stones, glass, nails and other items that can damage the tread. If one tire is damaged beyond repair, note the size of the tire on the sidewall, and buy either a new or used tire of exactly those measurements. A new set is not required as long as the speed rating and vehicle type is the same.  Retread tires are not ideal, but if they are cost-effective, in good condition and have a limited warranty, they are much better than driving on a bulging, split or severely worn tire.

Even if your tires are holding their air pressure, continue to check the treads. Take a penny and stick it in the treads head first, if you can see Lincolns head, start thinking about replacing the set or at least a pair.  Check back to this blog for another article about which brands are the best.  Replace your tires in pairs, for safer driving.

Lets look at "P195/75R14 92S".

The "P" means the tire uses the "Passenger" sizing system for cars and light trucks.

The "195" is the "section width" or the width of the tire at its widest point in milimeters.

The "75" is the "aspect ratio" which measures the height of the tire from the bead to the top of the tread. The number is a percentage of the width. In this case, the aspect ratio is 75% of 195mm.

The "R" means the tire is of radial ply construction.

The "14" means the tire is designed to be mounted on a rim of 14 inches in diameter.

The "92S" is the "service description". This is perhaps the most important piece of the size description and also the most ignored. It contains two bits of information. The 92 is the "load index" and is the tires maximum load carrying capacity,around 1,400 lbs. The "S" is the "speed rating" and gives the tires rated speed capability over a set period of time at a specific inflation pressure.

Hope that helps.