Find a Nearby Dealer
 
When you get prices on-line, verify to see if they partner with any nearby installers or simply Google Tires in "your city". Just about everyone will install tires for you if you purchase them elsewhere, but not everybody will permit you to ship tires directly to their shop. We do not because there is really no point.  When you factor in shipping costs, we will always be competitive.   {
 
Keep in mind the Extras
 
Along with the price of tires, you will generally be charged by the installer for these items:
 •Mounting/Balancing
•Valve stem installation
•Disposal of old tires
 •State fees and sales tax
 
This can cost you an additional $50-$100.  Make sure to keep in mind these items and also the cost of shipping when comparing on-line prices to a nearby tire shop.  Also, keep in mind the value of any tire warranties, rebates, or free rotations that come with the deal. We can assure you that more people rotate their tires when it is free and therefore extend the life of their investment.
 
Negotiate the very best Tire Price
 
After you’ve identified a set of tires online, contact your nearby tire shop.  Begin by asking them if they'll install a set of tires you are going to purchase on-line (and if they'll accept direct shipment).  This may generally prompt them to ask you what model tires you would like and what cost you are getting.
 
Many times, the tire shop will come right out and provide you a much better deal, (we will try to meet somewhere in the middle because the value we bring has a real hard cost).   But if they do not, go ahead and ask them if they are able to beat your price.  You will be surprised that they're generally prepared to create a deal.   And if they cannot come close to your price, think about calling one or two of their competitors.

The final question we hear regarding discount tires is :

I plan on driving this car into the ground and I want only the very best. This really is the best question regarding inexpensive tires. We have put two sets of tires on our cars, each have in excess of 125,000 miles on them and we will put a third set on in the near future. WE TAKE GOOD CARE OF OUR CARS.  If you are going to drive your car until 200,000 miles, buy good tires with a warranty!! Do not get taken by discount tires with no one standing behind them. 

That being said, most people we know get sick of the car, or more accurately sick of fixing the car and justify in their minds a new car because they are tired of "throwing money away" for the used car.  Of course it is almost three times as expensive to buy a new car as it is getting a used one repaired, but that is a different story.

So, to answer the question: buy a good intermediate set with a solid factory warranty from a reputable dealer.  If you get sick of the car, you are not out all that extra money.  If you do drive it "into the ground" you can count on at least 50,000 miles from the set.  

Buying Discount Tires From an Independent Tire Facility

Here is the second most common question we get regarding buying discount tires:

When I determine the price of tires including labor etc. which scenario works out better? Here again we'll look at the difference in tires and costs. We'll look at the exact same sized tire (225-60-16) in two different brands.  The first tire will be the Sumitomo priced at $68.00 and is a 40,000 mile tire and a Bridgestone priced at $152.00 which is a 60,000 mile tire.

First of all the Bridgestone tire is more than double the price but will have more life than the discount tire. The other benefit is a slightly better ride. I don't know about you but our four year old vehicle doesn't have a brand new suspension and no matter what won't ride like I'm riding on air. We really don't believe we will notice the difference.

So the difference is price.  This is pretty simple. If you keep your car another 120,000 miles, you will spend $1,216.  The discount tires will cost $816.00.  We do not see a financial benefit of very expensive tires.

Walking into a tire showroom can be a mind-boggling experience with a huge selection of tire brands available, in a wide range of designs, construction, composition and cost. To make the choice simpler and much more efficient we've put together these ten suggestions.

1. Make certain that you really need new tires. Perform a fast visual inspection. If you see excessive tread wear, cracked sidewall's, or any discoloration or bulging, it is time for a new set. If your tires are over ten years old, replace them even if they appear to have tread remaining. Rubber deteriorates with exposure to oxygen.

2. Make certain that your vehicle is in good shape. Inspect your tires for signs of uneven wear, which may indicate alignment or suspension problems. Verify for signs like more wear on the inside or outside of the tire.  An even wear pattern across the whole width is optimum. If you put a brand new set of tires on a misaligned vehicle, or one with bad shocks, you are throwing cash away. The new tires will wear rapidly and unevenly, and you will need another set.

3. Check your owners manual. The manufacturer of your vehicle has made a recommendation about the size and type of tires which function best with your vehicle. That information is found in the owner's manual. The information also is permanently attached to your door edge, door post, glove compartment door or inside your trunk lid.

4. Figure out the tire code. Maybe the most confusing part of tire buying is figuring out what these numbers on the sidewall of the tire mean. They're part of a easy standardized code that's required by federal law to be able to describe tires in case of a recall. Here is a crash course:

Tire Sidewall Markings: P215/65R 15 95H M+S

- First up is a letter or letters, indicating the tire's objective: "P" for passenger vehicles or "LT" for light trucks are probably the most likely letters you will see.

- Next is a three-digit number. This is the tire's width (in millimeters) from sidewall edge to sidewall edge.

- Then, a two-digit number that is the tire's aspect ratio, or the ratio of height to width. The smaller the number, the shorter the sidewall.

- Next, a letter, most likely "R," which indicates radial construction.

- Then, another two-digit number, that is the diameter from the wheel that the tire is intended to fit.

- Next, an optional two- or three-digit number. This is the tire's load index number. The load index number corresponds with the tire's load-carrying capacity.

- Next, a letter. This is the tire's speed rating. Adhere to your manufacturer's recommendation. You should only have to upgrade to a higher speed rating when you have altered your vehicle for track use.

- Next, some more letters, usually "M+S" or "M/S." This stands for mud and snow, and applies to most radial tires sold in America.

5. Think about the wheels. Among the most popular customization options on vehicles nowadays is really cool new set of rims. If your present wheels are worn or damaged, you may want to think about purchasing a brand new set when you buy new tires.

6. Buy a full, matching set. Although you might try to cut corners, and just replace the tire/s which are most worn, modern suspension technology is designed to function best with a matching set of tires. By replacing all four at once, you will be able to preserve your tires much longer.

7. Check on your spare. This can be a fantastic time to have your spare tire inspected, and replaced if necessary.

8. Think about purchasing from an independent repair facility.  These small shops can get ANY brand and will usually match the big boys on price.  They will sell you the best tire for your car and not jam a certain brand down your throat. 

9. Break in your new tires carefully. There is a release agent used throughout the manufacturing process, and it could leave a residue on the treads of new tires. There is a possibility that your tires will have much less grip than expected till the residue wears off, particularly in wet conditions. Allow about 500 miles of break-in time before you push your tires hard.

10. Preserve your investment when you buy new tires. Check for proper inflation regularly. Keeping your tires correctly inflated will enhance your gas mileage, and can significantly improve your tires' longevity. Rotate your tires each time you change your oil — even when they don't show signs of wear.

Step eight: Go the Extra Mile to Guarantee Top quality

If the car fails on any of the points in the previous posts, take it to a mechanic to gauge repairs. It really is your call whether or not you need to walk away or negotiate the price depending on the repair estimate.

We advise that you get in touch with your nearby Division of Motor Vehicles and ask what forms are necessary to transfer the title and any other info you will need to provide.  Every state is different and if you make a mistake with the title or fill in the wrong parts too soon, it could be as long as four weeks to get another copy. 

Measure twice, cut once! 

As an example, some states will need you to bring the car to the DMV for inspection, some states need a smog certificate and others need the bill of sale from the existing owner.

Lastly, whatever you do, get every little thing IN WRITING. This means if you buy from a private party, write up a contract stating exactly what you are paying for the car and how it will be delivered.

If the car fails on any of the points in the previous posts, take it to a mechanic to gauge repairs. It really is your call whether or not you need to walk away or negotiate the price depending on the repair estimate.

We advise that you get in touch with your nearby Division of Motor Vehicles and ask what forms are necessary to transfer the title and any other info you will need to provide.  Every state is different and if you make a mistake with the title or fill in the wrong parts too soon, it could be as long as four weeks to get another copy.  Measure twice, cut once!  As an example, some states will need you to bring the car to the DMV for inspection, some states need a smog certificate and others need the bill of sale from the existing owner.

Lastly, whatever you do, get every little thing IN WRITING. This means if you buy from a private party, write up a contract stating exactly what you are paying for the car and how it will be delivered.

Buying a used car from an independent mechanics point of view

Step Six – Conduct a Thorough Test Drive

 It looks great and sounds fine, so now it's time for the all-important test spin. This provides you the chance to gauge an automobile's driving properties as well as minimizes the chance of future buyer's remorse.

Many people take only a couple of minutes to test drive a vehicle; this really is a large error that frequently comes back to bite them in the butt. Buying a used car requires time. Before driving, invest as a lot of time inside the car. Sit in it for a while and verify that each interior function performs correctly.  You might want to bring along a CD to find out if the sound system is still decent. 

Issues to be aware of before your test drive:

1. Seat Comfort
Will be the seat be too hard or too soft for long trips? Does it hold you firmly with good lateral and thigh support? Do your legs begin to cramp after about ten minutes? Does your lower back feel like it needs more support? Take your time, since the seat will be the one feature you use continuously.

2. Cockpit Feel
Is the steering wheel too high or too close? When adjusted to a comfortable position, does it cut off your view of the gauges? Look at the layout of the radio and heater controls. Can they be effortlessly adjusted with out taking your eyes from the road? Look over your shoulder. Are there any blind spots that you can't compensate for by adjusting your mirrors? Climb into all of the seats and check the head and leg room for passengers.  Check to see how far the rear windows roll down. Some models have windows that go down only a couple of inches or are sealed in place and don't roll down at all. Take your time. Then take it for a drive.

3. Dashboard Lights
Prior to staring the car, turn the key towards the "Accessory" position. All of the dash warning lights ought to illuminate. Make sure both the "check engine" and, "ABS" lights illuminate. If they don't, the issue might be as minor as a burned-out bulb or as severe as tampering to disguise an issue. In either situation, insist the issue be corrected or inspected before exchanging money.

4. Engine Noise
When you first start the engine, listen for any tapping or ticking sounds. A prolonged tapping might be valves needing adjustment or a bad hydraulic lifter. Turn the wheel from side to side and listen for belt squeal. Pump the brake pedal a couple of times and then press hard. If it slowly sinks all the way to the floor, there's either a leak within the line or the master cylinder needs repair. Shift into gear. If the car is an automatic, the transmission ought to engage instantly and, as you drive, shifts should be firm and fast. There should be no grinding or groaning sound of any kind from the transmission when you choose gears. With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from drive to reverse; clunks or grinding noises could indicate worn or broken engine or transmission mounts, bad universal joints or excessive differential wear.

5. Steering Vibration
As you drive along, does the steering wheel shake or vibrate? Vibration in the steering wheel can mean anything from an unbalanced tire to a loose steering rack. If the steering wheel shakes but only when you are braking, this could indicate a warped brake rotor or sticking caliper.

6. The Brakes
Vehicles with ABS (anti lock brakes) will have a slight pulsating action in the pedal when the brake is applied with quick force. Cars with out ABS should not have pulsating brake pedals under any circumstances. The car ought to drive in a straight line when the brakes are applied. If the car pulls noticeably to the left or right, it could indicate an issue with the front brake calipers or pads, the suspension or steering gear.

Purchasing a used car from a mechanics point of view.

Protech is an independent repair facility that repairs new and used cars in Oldham Kentucky and we want to help people who are purchasing a used car buy the right car and not make a financial mistake.

Part Five – Conduct a thorough walk around.

Purchasing a used car requires an actual physical assessment of the car and is absolutely vital prior to an offer or purchase. Take some time and be careful with your evaluation. While a private party may allow you to take the car to your personal mechanic, a dealer might not be so accommodating, insisting that his own mechanic perform the inspection. Do not let this stop you from performing some basic inspections of your own. Again, if the seller objects or tries to keep you from looking too closely, walk away. An honest dealer should support each used vehicle he or she sells, and you will find lots of good dealers out there.

Look for the following red flags:

Signs of poor alignment

Check the tires for wear. Uneven tire wear — balding on the sides or in the middle — could indicate the need for a front-end alignment or perhaps a much more expensive repair to the suspension. 

Possible signs of body repair:

Bring along a small refrigerator magnet and place it very gently  along various body panels. If there's any plastic body filler present, the magnet won't stay in place, indicating the car has been involved in an accident. If the seller is honest, this really is no big deal. But stand away from the car and look at its panels and seams. Does every thing line up correctly? If not, find another car.

Signs of repainting:
 
Open the trunk, hood and doors. Look for paint over-spray, a telling sign all or part of the car has been repainted. Now walk around the car. Are all of the body components precisely the same color?

Signs of a cracked block
 
This is obviously a big one!! Check the radiator fluid. If it's foamy or has oil droplets in it, there's a good chance the vehicle has a defective head gasket or, worse, a cracked block or cylinder head, any of which will trigger the coolant and oil to mix together. If that's the case, don't walk away. Run away.

Protech is an independent repair facility that repairs new and used cars in Oldham Kentucky and we want to help people buy the correct used car and not make a financial mistake.

Part Four – Used Cars History . Get a History and a Safety Report on the Vehicle.

Car titles are one of the most important types of customer protection against being cheated in a used-car deal. Understanding titles and car fraud can help you steer clear of falling victim to a scam artist. 

You need to always be concerned about purchasing somebody else's problems. Prior to making any offers, write down the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) which is a 17-digit code generally situated on the top of the instrument panel, at the base of the windshield. It'll also be on a sticker on the driver's-side door pillar, and in several other locations around the car. Make certain that all of the VINs on the car match! If the one on the door pillar is different than the one on the dashboard, or title, or someplace else, then some thing is very wrong.  Mistakes like this very rarely occur. 
The VIN will allow you to verify the title and get a detailed AutoCheck History Report. An AutoCheck report can identify major problems with the car, including past accidents, flood damage and odometer inconsistencies. Also, request copies of the service records from the individual selling the car and have the car inspected by a trusted mechanic before you give the seller any cash.

We also recommend that you research the car's recall history by going to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's (NHTSA) web site. There you are able to search a database for safety defects and recalls. Whether purchasing from a dealer or private party, it could be wise to utilize both resources. When the car's history doesn't match what the seller has told you, do not buy it.

Protech is an independent repair facility that repairs new and used cars in Oldham Kentucky and we want to help people buy the correct used car and not make a financial mistake.

Part Three

Buying a Used Car from a Dealer

 In the event you go to a sizable, trustworthy dealer with a brand franchise, there will most likely be a number of used cars available for sale on the lot. Although not always guaranteed by the manufacturer, these cars may include an extended service program offered by the dealer. Because dealers provide warranties and service programs, the used cars they offer must be refurbished to meet the warranty requirements. In reality, most cars in the used inventory of a brand name dealer will not have been taken in on trades for new cars, but would have been purchased at a local auction. Pricing for retail vehicles at a dealer will differ, but due to the refurbishing process, a buyer should be prepared to pay a premium price for the used car over a private owner cost.

Used Car from a Private Owner

 It is unfortunate that in this day and age we must be wary of purchasing from people, but this really is exactly where the danger of used car buying is at its highest. Prior to arriving at the house of the private owner or seller, it's preferable to ask the seller a number of questions concerning the car. Get as much info as you possibly can on ownership history, mileage, maintenance upkeep and especially the condition of the vehicle. Is there any body damage, even fairly small dents, scratches or dings? Is the exterior paint dull, chipped, scratched or peeling? Is the interior stained, faded, cracked or torn? How does the {car|vehicle} drive? Does the steering pull to one side or the other? Are the brakes operating effectively? Do the tires have tread and do they match? Another essential question is does the seller have title or is there a lien or loan that has to be paid off first! Get the VIN and do a CarFax check. 

Used Car Online Purchasing

 If you want to purchase a used car on-line, there are lots of used car sites, such as eBay Motors, where you can look for the car you need and effortlessly and safely get in touch with the seller.

For private party purchases, on-line classifieds can significantly improve the quality of communication between you and the seller with pictures, background, mileage as well as other important details which are clearly shown on every entry. You can also apply on-line for an extended warranty.

Certified Pre-Owned

Manufacturers' certified programs have taken a lot of the danger out of used car shopping by providing superb warranties on extremely clean, refurbished used cars, known as Certified Pre-Owned, or CPO. Only particular cars qualify for certification. Usually, the car must be under 5 years old and have less than 75,000 miles.

Manufacturers vary in how many points of the Certified Pre-Owned cars are checked or reconditioned, but most put a car through a comprehensive check of all major systems.

For many buyers a Certified Pre-Owned car represents the very best deal in the business. The car will probably be in superb condition, in most instances it includes additional warranty coverage, which can be fairly substantial, and it might also be available for the manufacturer's financing programs. Because it'll be a used car and the heavy, depreciation will have been taken by somebody else,  you get a really clean used car, with the benefits of decreased depreciation and also the peace-of-mind because of the additional warranty.