Buying a used car from an independent mechanics point of view

Step Six – Conduct a Thorough Test Drive

 It looks great and sounds fine, so now it's time for the all-important test spin. This provides you the chance to gauge an automobile's driving properties as well as minimizes the chance of future buyer's remorse.

Many people take only a couple of minutes to test drive a vehicle; this really is a large error that frequently comes back to bite them in the butt. Buying a used car requires time. Before driving, invest as a lot of time inside the car. Sit in it for a while and verify that each interior function performs correctly.  You might want to bring along a CD to find out if the sound system is still decent. 

Issues to be aware of before your test drive:

1. Seat Comfort
Will be the seat be too hard or too soft for long trips? Does it hold you firmly with good lateral and thigh support? Do your legs begin to cramp after about ten minutes? Does your lower back feel like it needs more support? Take your time, since the seat will be the one feature you use continuously.

2. Cockpit Feel
Is the steering wheel too high or too close? When adjusted to a comfortable position, does it cut off your view of the gauges? Look at the layout of the radio and heater controls. Can they be effortlessly adjusted with out taking your eyes from the road? Look over your shoulder. Are there any blind spots that you can't compensate for by adjusting your mirrors? Climb into all of the seats and check the head and leg room for passengers.  Check to see how far the rear windows roll down. Some models have windows that go down only a couple of inches or are sealed in place and don't roll down at all. Take your time. Then take it for a drive.

3. Dashboard Lights
Prior to staring the car, turn the key towards the "Accessory" position. All of the dash warning lights ought to illuminate. Make sure both the "check engine" and, "ABS" lights illuminate. If they don't, the issue might be as minor as a burned-out bulb or as severe as tampering to disguise an issue. In either situation, insist the issue be corrected or inspected before exchanging money.

4. Engine Noise
When you first start the engine, listen for any tapping or ticking sounds. A prolonged tapping might be valves needing adjustment or a bad hydraulic lifter. Turn the wheel from side to side and listen for belt squeal. Pump the brake pedal a couple of times and then press hard. If it slowly sinks all the way to the floor, there's either a leak within the line or the master cylinder needs repair. Shift into gear. If the car is an automatic, the transmission ought to engage instantly and, as you drive, shifts should be firm and fast. There should be no grinding or groaning sound of any kind from the transmission when you choose gears. With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from drive to reverse; clunks or grinding noises could indicate worn or broken engine or transmission mounts, bad universal joints or excessive differential wear.

5. Steering Vibration
As you drive along, does the steering wheel shake or vibrate? Vibration in the steering wheel can mean anything from an unbalanced tire to a loose steering rack. If the steering wheel shakes but only when you are braking, this could indicate a warped brake rotor or sticking caliper.

6. The Brakes
Vehicles with ABS (anti lock brakes) will have a slight pulsating action in the pedal when the brake is applied with quick force. Cars with out ABS should not have pulsating brake pedals under any circumstances. The car ought to drive in a straight line when the brakes are applied. If the car pulls noticeably to the left or right, it could indicate an issue with the front brake calipers or pads, the suspension or steering gear.